Propagating pothos is one of the easiest and most rewarding plant projects.
You snip a vine, place it in a jar of water, and wait for those delicate white roots to appear. But sometimes the process isn’t so straightforward.
Instead of sprouting, the cuttings sit there. Days turn into weeks, and you’re left staring at stems that refuse to grow.
If this sounds familiar, don’t give up as pothos are naturally resilient, and the problem usually comes down to a handful of common mistakes.
With a little adjustment, your cuttings can bounce back and start rooting.
1. Weak or Old Cuttings Lack Energy
A cutting taken from a tired, woody stem or a vine with yellowing leaves simply doesn’t have the energy to produce roots. Instead, it focuses on survival.
Newer growth, especially tips with fresh leaves, contains more vigor and carbohydrates, which are essential for rooting.
Therefore, always take your cuttings from healthy vines. Aim for sections with 2-3 green leaves and at least one firm node.
If the cutting already looks weak, it’s best to start over with a stronger piece.
2. No Node, No Roots
A cutting without a node is like trying to grow a tree without a seed, it just won’t happen.
Nodes are the small bumps or joints on the stem, and they’re the only place roots can emerge.
Many beginners make the mistake of cutting only a leaf with stem attached, leaving the node behind.
You need to make your cut just below a node, and when placing the cutting in water, ensure the node is submerged.
In soil, tuck the node beneath the surface. Without this, rooting is impossible.
3. Water Quality Can Make or Break It
Water may look harmless, but it’s not all equal. Chlorine, fluoride, and even mineral-heavy water can stress a cutting.
On top of that, stale water quickly develops bacteria that suffocate the stem and cause rot.
You need to use filtered water, rainwater, or tap water that has sat out overnight to allow chlorine to evaporate.
Refresh the water every 3-4 days, rinsing the container and the cuttings’ base. Clean water means healthy, oxygen-rich conditions where roots can grow.
4. Light Levels Are Off
Light is the engine that drives photosynthesis, and without energy from light, your cuttings can’t root.
Too little light, and they sit idle. Too much direct sunlight, and the leaves scorch or the water overheats.
So, place your cuttings in bright, indirect light. A spot near an east-facing window or a filtered south-facing window is perfect.
If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, a small grow light set to low intensity for 8-10 hours a day will do wonders.
5. Cold Temperatures Slow Everything Down
Pothos are tropical plants, and their cuttings expect warmth.
If your room dips below 65°F (18°C), the rooting process slows dramatically. At lower temperatures, cuttings often survive but do little more than stay green.
You keep the jar in a warm room where the temperature stays between 70-85°F (21-29°C).
Avoid placing cuttings on drafty windowsills during winter. A gentle seedling heat mat under the jar can provide the warmth needed to kickstart roots.
6. Overcrowding Creates Stress
Stuffing too many cuttings into one jar may look pretty, but it creates competition for oxygen and encourages bacterial growth.
When leaves or stems sit pressed together in the water, rot spreads easily.
You should limit each jar to just a few cuttings. If you’re propagating a large batch, divide them into multiple jars.
The extra space helps each cutting breathe and access enough light for rooting.
7. Sometimes, It Just Takes Time
Even when everything is done correctly, pothos don’t always rush.
Most cuttings need 2-4 weeks to show their first root nubs, and another couple of weeks before roots are long enough for potting.
If your cuttings look green, firm, and the node isn’t mushy, they’re alive, they just need patience.
So, wait it out. As long as the cutting looks healthy, don’t panic.
Roots are forming slowly beneath the surface, and before long, you’ll see progress.
Final Thoughts
When pothos cuttings don’t root, it’s easy to feel frustrated.
But in most cases, the problem isn’t complicated, it’s usually a missing node, poor water, low light, cold conditions, or overcrowding.
Once you correct these basics, you’ll be rewarded with those first delicate roots that signal new life.
