When the final trumpet-shaped flower begins to droop, many people assume the show is over but that’s only part of the story. An amaryllis is a perennial beauty that can reward you year after year, if you treat it right.
The real secret lies in the aftercare. And what you do after the bloom ends determines if your bulb will thrive, survive, or completely give up.
With the right steps, your bulb can live over a decade, often producing more blooms each cycle.
Don’t Toss Amaryllis – The Bulb Is Still Alive and Working
It’s tempting to discard the plant once the flowers fade, but the bulb is still very much alive. In fact, it’s entering its most important phase: energy recovery.
During this time, all the sugars and nutrients created through its leaves are stored inside the bulb to fuel future growth.
In the wild, amaryllis (Hippeastrum) go through this cycle naturally, but in a home setting, it’s up to you to simulate those conditions. If you skip this care, the bulb will shrink and may fail to bloom next season.
Remove the Amaryllis Blooms, But Let the Leaves Stay
Deadhead the flowers once they wilt, cutting just below the bloom. However, do not remove the leaves. They’re essential in rebuilding the bulb’s strength through photosynthesis.
The more green leaf surface you preserve, the more energy the bulb stores. If you accidentally damage the foliage, your plant may limp along for months without fully recovering.
I like to gently wipe the leaves weekly to remove dust so they can absorb sunlight better—especially indoors.
Trim the Amaryllis Stalk at the Right Time
You should wait until the flower stalk has yellowed or begun to dry out before removing it. Cutting it too early can reduce the nutrients being reabsorbed into the bulb.
Once it’s clearly past its prime, trim it down to an inch or so above the bulb base.
Be sure your pruning tool is clean to prevent introducing bacteria into the bulb tissue. I disinfect mine in a little isopropyl alcohol between cuts, just to be safe.
Post-Bloom Care
Now your amaryllis shifts into a new role as a leafy, green houseplant. Give it indirect sunlight and rotate the pot every few days to prevent leaning.
Next, water consistently, but let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. Too much moisture and low airflow can trigger fungal issues or bulb rot.
During this time, a balanced 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer every few weeks will support leaf and root growth. The healthier the foliage looks, the better shape your bulb will be in come bloom season.
Summer Vacation: Move Amaryllis Outdoors If You Can
If you live in USDA zones 8-11 or have warm summers, your amaryllis will love spending time outside. Acclimate it slowly to outdoor light, starting in a shaded area before transitioning to morning sun.
Also, keep it in a well-draining container to avoid root rot during heavy rains. Outdoors, they usually bulk up faster and develop broader leaves.
Just remember to protect it from hungry critters as squirrels love to dig into soft pots and disturb the bulbs.
Induce Amaryllis Dormancy Gradually
By late summer or early fall, you’ll want to stop fertilizing and reduce watering. Allow the leaves to yellow naturally, don’t force the process.
Once they die back, trim them to the neck of the bulb and move the pot to a dark, dry, and cool place around 50-55°F. This dormant rest period should last 8–12 weeks, depending on when you want it to bloom.
During this time, don’t water at all. The bulb needs this break to regenerate internally and set new flower buds.
Reawaken and Replant Amaryllis
When you’re ready for it to bloom again, typically about 6-10 weeks before you want flowers, bring it back into warmth and light.
If the bulb outgrew its container, now’s a good time to repot. Use a container just 1-2 inches wider than the bulb with drainage holes and fresh potting mix.
Additionally, a mix of peat moss, perlite, and compost gives good drainage while holding just enough moisture. Position the bulb so its neck and top third stay above the soil line.
Read more: The Secret to Growing Amaryllis and Enjoying Flowers All Year Round
Can I Keep It Growing Year-Round Without Dormancy?
Technically yes, but the blooms may suffer. Skipping dormancy results in leggy growth, fewer flower stalks, and weaker performance over time.
If you’re growing multiple bulbs, try staggering dormancy and wake-up times so you have blooms throughout the winter without forcing the same bulb repeatedly.
What If It Doesn’t Rebloom?
Don’t panic, some bulbs skip a year if they were stressed. Let it grow another full leaf cycle, feed it well, and give it proper dormancy.
You also need to check for signs of rot or mushiness in the bulb. If it feels soft or smells sour, it may not recover.
Otherwise, with patience and care, most amaryllis will reward your effort with vibrant, trumpet-like blooms again soon.
