Basil is one of those plants that just makes a garden feel complete. Whether you’re growing it for its incredible aroma, its fresh and vibrant flavor, or simply to have a lush green plant that thrives through summer, basil is a must-have.
Over the years, I’ve experimented with growing basil in different conditions like pots, raised beds, kitchen windowsills and I’ve learned a few things that can make all the difference in producing a thriving, bushy plant instead of a weak, leggy one.
If you want basil that grows thick, full, and loaded with fragrant leaves, let me walk you through everything I’ve learned about growing it successfully.
Not all basil is the same, and I’ve found that choosing the right variety makes a difference depending on what you want from your plants.
If you love variety, there are so many options - purple basil, lemon basil, cinnamon basil - each with its own unique scent and flavor.
The good news is that no matter which type you choose, the growing principles remain the same.
Basil loves warmth, sunshine, and regular attention. If you give it what it needs, it will reward you with an endless supply of fragrant leaves.
Basil is one of the easiest herbs to start from seed, but I’ve also had great success with cuttings.
If you’re planting seeds, I always recommend sowing them directly into warm soil once the danger of frost has passed. They germinate quickly, usually within a week, as long as the soil temperature is around 65–70°F (18–21°C).
For those who want a head start, you can start seeds indoors about 4–6 weeks before the last frost. I always make sure to transplant them carefully as basil hates having its roots disturbed.
If I’m planting nursery-bought seedlings, I choose strong, bushy plants with no flowers because flowering too soon can slow down leaf production.
One of the biggest mistakes I used to make was planting basil too close together. Basil needs good air circulation to prevent disease, so I always space plants about 10–12 inches apart.
If I’m growing it in a pot, I use a container at least 8 inches wide so the roots have room to spread.
Basil is a sun lover, it thrives in at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day. If you’re growing it indoors, place it near a south-facing window or supplement with grow lights.
I’ve noticed that basil grown in too much shade becomes leggy and weak, producing fewer leaves.
Soil is another key factor. Basil loves well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a slight loamy texture. If your garden soil is heavy or clay-like, mix in compost or aged manure to improve drainage.
I always say, "Happy roots make happy plants," and for basil, that means keeping the soil moist but never soggy.
Basil doesn’t like extremes when it comes to watering. It doesn’t want to dry out completely, but it also doesn’t want to sit in wet soil.
I’ve found that the best approach is to water deeply but infrequently usually every 2–3 days in warm weather. When watering, I aim for the base of the plant to avoid getting the leaves wet, which helps prevent fungal diseases.
If you’re growing basil in pots, check the soil often because containers dry out faster than garden beds.
During hot summer days, I sometimes water potted basil daily to keep it from wilting. A simple trick I use is sticking my finger about an inch into the soil if it feels dry, it’s time to water.
I start as soon as the plant has at least six leaves. By cutting just above a set of leaves, I encourage the plant to send out side branches, creating a fuller shape. If you skip this step, basil tends to get leggy, with fewer usable leaves.
Another crucial tip is to remove flowers as soon as they appear. The moment basil starts to flower, it puts all its energy into seed production instead of growing more leaves.
Basil isn’t a heavy feeder, but giving it a little boost now and then makes a noticeable difference. I prefer using a mild organic fertilizer, like compost tea or fish emulsion, every 3–4 weeks.
Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen formulas, can make basil grow fast but reduce its flavor. The best basil has a deep, concentrated aroma, and overfeeding can make it taste bland.
For container-grown basil, I fertilize more frequently, about every 2 weeks since nutrients wash out of pots faster than garden soil.
In warm regions, basil can thrive outdoors for months, but as soon as temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C), it struggles. That’s why I always bring a few plants indoors before the first frost.
If you want fresh basil through winter, try growing it in a sunny windowsill or under grow lights. You can also take cuttings from an outdoor plant, root them in water, and transplant them into a pot indoors.
Basil won’t grow as vigorously inside, but with regular trimming, you can still enjoy fresh leaves all year long.
Basil is usually trouble-free, but occasionally, I’ve had to deal with aphids, whiteflies, or slugs. A simple spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap helps keep pests at bay.
If I see slug damage, I sprinkle crushed eggshells or diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant to deter them.
Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering, poor drainage, or a nutrient imbalance. If my basil looks unhealthy, I check the soil first and adjust watering before adding any fertilizer.
The best time to harvest is in the morning when the leaves are most flavorful. I never take more than one-third of the plant at a time to avoid stressing it.
If I have more basil than I can use, I preserve it in different ways. Fresh basil can be stored in a glass of water on the kitchen counter for a few days, or I freeze whole leaves in olive oil for longer storage.
Another trick I love is making basil pesto and freezing it in small portions, it tastes like summer even in the middle of winter.
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