Full Guide on Growing Okra In Containers

Have you ever wondered if you can grow okra in containers? Three years ago, despite many seasoned gardeners doubting it, I did successfully.

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Okra, known for its tender pods, is perfect for frying, stews, or pickling.

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Growing okras in containers can save space, reduce soil-borne diseases, and allow for better control of growing conditions.

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If you own limited garden space or urban settings, this method will be a perfect solution.

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Summary:

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  • Okra is a nutritious vegetable rich in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as fiber and antioxidants. 
  • Clemson Spineless, Annie Oakley II, Baby Bubba, and Louisiana Green Velvet are best varieties in containers.
  • Okra needs full sun, consistent watering, and balanced fertilization. 
  • Harvest pods when they are 2-4 inches long and preserve them by pickling, freezing, or drying to enjoy year-round.
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Scientific nameAbelmoschus esculentus
Common nameOkra, Ladies' Fingers, Gumbo
Plant typeAnnual vegetable
SizeHeight: 3-6 feet, Spread: 1-2 feet
Growth habitErect, bushy
Soil requirementsWell-draining, loamy soil, pH 6.0-6.8
SunlightFull sun
WateringLarge, yellow with a red or purple center
USDA9-11
Native rangeAfrica
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Propagation

Seeds are the most common method to propagate okra. Simply sow them directly into your container, and within a few weeks, you’ll see those first green shoots poking through the soil.

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However, if you’re looking for a faster and perhaps more rewarding way to grow okra, consider using cuttings.

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Last summer, I experimented with okra cuttings. I had a particularly healthy plant that I didn’t want to let go of, so I snipped off a few stems just below a node and removed the lower leaves.

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Then I dipped the cut ends in rooting hormone to give them a boost and planted them in a mix of potting soil and perlite.

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To my delight, within a couple of weeks, roots started to form.

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Growing Okra

Preparation

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Through trial and error, I learned that not all okra plants are created equal, and there are four well-suited for container gardening:

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  • Clemson Spineless: grows up to 4-5 feet tall, lacks spiny pods, is highly productive, and matures in about 55-60 days.
  • Annie Oakley II: grows around 3-4 feet tall and is perfect for containers. It matures quickly in about 50-55 days.
  • Baby Bubba: grows to just about 3 feet tall but is quite productive with pods ready to harvest in about 53 days.
  • Louisiana Green Velvet: reaches up to feet tall but thrives in containers. It offers large, tender pods and matures in about 55-65 days.
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Next, I start with a high-quality potting mix, then add compost to enrich it with organic matter and mix in some perlite to improve drainage and aeration.

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Okra has deep roots, so you need a pot that is at least 12-18 inches deep.

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Each okra plant needs about a 5-gallon container to thrive. If you want to grow multiple plants in one container, calculate accordingly: a 10-gallon pot for two plants, and a 15-gallon pot for three plants.

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How to Grow Okra In Containers

I usually start planting my okra in late spring, once the temperatures are consistently warm. So wait until after the last frost.

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In my region with hardiness zone 8, that’s typically around late April or early May. I begin sowing seeds directly into the containers.

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I plant 2-3 seeds in each container, about ½ to 1 inch deep. If you're using a large container, you can sow multiple seeds, ensuring space 12-18 inches apart.

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Also, remember to keep the soil consistently moist during the germination period, which usually takes between 5-10 days.

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In warmer weather, the seeds tend to germinate faster. You also need to place the containers in a warm, bright spot, so a sunny patio or balcony works perfectly.

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Care for Okra

From my experience, these are the main requirements for caring for okra:

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  • Ensure your okra gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day.
  • Use well-draining, nutrient-rich soil.
  • Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
  • Maintain a warm environment between 70-90°F (21-32°C).
  • Apply a balanced fertilizer every few weeks.
  • Use mulch like straw or shredded leaves to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
  • Thin seedlings about 12-18 inches apart.
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Light

Okra plants thrive in full sun, needing at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day.

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In my experience, placing the containers on the south-facing side of my patio ensured they soaked up all the sun they needed.

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However, during the hottest part of the summer, you can provide some partial shade in the afternoon to prevent the soil from drying out too quickly.

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Soil

Okra thrives in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. I usually mix high-quality potting soil with compost and a bit of perlite to ensure good aeration.

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The ideal soil pH for okra is between 6.0 and 6.8, so it’s slightly acidic. I remember the first time I tested my soil pH and realized it was too alkaline; then I added some sulfur to help balance it out.

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Water

Okra needs 1 inch of water per week, but be careful not to overwater and create soggy conditions.

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I usually water my okra deeply in early mornings, especially during hot spells.

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I used to water it in the evening, but I noticed it led to fungal issues. I recommend using a soaker hose or watering at the base to keep the foliage dry and prevent diseases.

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Temperature and Humidity

Okra thrives in warm conditions between 70-90°F. Living in USDA hardiness zone 8, I’ve found that okra loves the summer heat.

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However, too much heat can stress the plants. If your temperatures soar, add a simple shade cloth and extra watering in the mornings to help them bounce back.

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Fertilizer

Throughout the growing season, I side-dress with more compost to keep the nutrients flowing.

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When my okra plants reach about 6 inches tall, I give them another dose of balanced fertilizer. However, be careful with nitrogen levels - too much can cause excess leafy growth instead of pods.

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Later in the season, I switch to a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content, like a 5-10-15 or 6-12-12 ratio, to encourage fruiting.

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Mulching

You can use straw or shredded leaves as mulch because they’re readily available and break down to retain moisture but also keeps the weeds down.

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After planting, spread a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants, leaving a small gap around the stems to prevent rot.

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Pests and Diseases

I remember one season when my okra leaves started yellowing and curling, this is a clear sign of an aphid infestation.

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Aphids are tiny, but they suck the sap from your plants. To tackle aphids, I use a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap, spraying it directly on the affected areas.

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Spider mites, another frequent pest, leave fine webbing and cause speckled, discolored leaves. I’ve found that regularly misting the plants helps, as spider mites thrive in dry conditions.

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Whiteflies are also a nuisance, causing leaves to yellow and drop. You should introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings to control these pests naturally.

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In addition, you need to stay vigilant against powdery mildew. This fungal disease thrives in humid conditions and you have to remove the affected leaves immediately.

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Another issue you can face is wilting. Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne fungus that clogs the plant's water channels. Sadly, affected plants often need to be removed and the soil treated with a fungicide.

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Especially, you need to be concerned about root rot, often caused by overwatering. Make sure proper drainage and not overwatering.

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Common Problems

Slow Growth

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If your okra plants get pale leaves and minimal new growth, they might be suffering from nutrient deficiency or poor soil conditions.

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Another cause could be insufficient sunlight - okra needs full sun to thrive.

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Therefore, you need to add a balanced fertilizer and move your containers to a sunnier spot.

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No Pods

If your okra plants are growing well but not producing pods, it can be due to excessive nitrogen in the soil.

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The plants were lush and green but focused more on leaf growth than pod production. So, you need to switch to a low-nitrogen fertilizer like NPK ratio 5-10-15.

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Harvest

You should check for pods about 50-60 days after planting. You’ll know they’re ready when they reach about 2-4 inches in length.

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If left too long, the pods can become tough and fibrous, so it’s best to pick them when they’re tender.

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To harvest, in early morning, use a sharp pair of pruners or garden scissors then cut the pods cleanly at the stem to avoid damaging the plant.

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It’s important to check your plants every day or two because okra grows quickly, especially in warm weather.

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Preservation

One of my favorite methods is pickling. To pickle, simply pack the pods into sterilized jars, add your pickling spices, and cover with a hot vinegar solution.

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Freezing is another easy method. You only need to blanch the okra pods in boiling water for a few minutes, then plunge them into ice water then transfer them to freezer bags.

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FAQs

How many okra pods per plant?

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Each okra plant can produce around 20-30 pods during the growing season, depending on the variety and growing conditions. Regular harvesting can encourage more pod production.

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Does okra need a trellis to grow?

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No. They have a sturdy, upright growth habit and can support themselves. However, if you live in a windy area, you might consider staking to prevent them from toppling over.

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What makes okra taste better?

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To enhance the flavor of okra, use fresh pods and cook them quickly to avoid a slimy texture. Grilling, roasting, or frying are great methods.

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Why do you put vinegar in okra?

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Adding vinegar to okra, especially when pickling, gives them a tangy flavor. Vinegar also helps reduce the sliminess, making okra more palatable and enjoyable.

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